Christmas in Tucson

Horsing around at Saguaro National Park

Our next destination, per crowdsourced suggestions (and some necessary adulting) was to spend some extended time around Tucson with our first destination being the only BLM area around on the south west side of town. Tucson was planned to be the biggest town we were going to camp near foe awhile so we ordered a cell extender for more consistent service. We also changed our cell provider and changed some things around with our service arrangements. Now we’re all on one family plan for $100/month! With better service coverage! Now the kids can do their homeschool computer work with more regularity too. We’ve been slacking since November with so much moving around and t-mobile basically really stunk in many of the places we’d been. Adulting while on the road and getting these needs met was a big win. And once again gives me so much compassion and insight to people unwillingly experiencing homelessness and the obstacles involved with setting up basic utilities while not living somewhere permanently.

We stayed in touch with the Jolley’s via social media so were able to meet up and camp with them a third time which once again really helped to break up some of the monotony of life on the road. In the meantime I was working on securing us a place in the nearby Gilbert Ray campground so we could have a nicer place to be at for Christmas. BLM land is fine for some things; it’s usually cheap or free, but no amenities like bathrooms trash or privacy existed in the Tucson BLM, it was also incredibly dusty and loud right off of the Ajo highway.

We took a fun diversion day to explore the Pima Air and Space Museum, which was a safe activity to do because it was almost entirely outdoors. I might do a separate post of all the planes we saw there but here are a handful of my favorite.

I liked the planes that artists got a hold of (surprise, surprise). No specific model or history.
WWII Plane art was also fascinating and widely varied in message conveyed
Some clever marketing person gets my applause here 🤱🏽

Once we got moved over to Gilbert Ray our options for hiking and exploring Saguaro National Park opened up. Turned out a lot of people had similar plans to ours, camping over the Christmas holiday, but the campground was the best maintained that we’ve encountered thus far, and everyone was quiet and respectful after dark. It did however mean we ended up spending more time just hanging around camp instead of at the NP. But it did feel like a needed rest so we embraced the slower pace.

A simple and quiet Christmas for us this year
Natalie made sticky buns for Christmas breakfast and this was her reaction to how they turned out.
A funky looking fishhook barrel cactus near camp at Gilbert Ray

When our reservation ended at GR we were not sure of our next plot point so instead of moving far we went to the other end of Tucson to an old run down campground at Colossal Cave Park. The mountains on this side of Tucson were definitely more wild and rugged. We encountered our first javelina (a type of wild pig), and Natalie and I saw a white nosed coati near a picnic area. Just these two scenarios made the visit worth it. We hiked all around our campground and the nearby ranch, petting the horses and learning about the indigenous peoples who had originally occupied this land. We stumbled upon a fairy garden here too, which had us all wondering about the creative kids who had set all of it up most likely quite recently. Enjoy the pics and I’ll try to do better at writing more regularly now that we have more consistent cell service.

(Almost) full moon rise over Colossal Cave campground
Fairy garden encounter, so fun to stumble upon so many colors in the winter desert
Another fabulous desert sunset

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

The greenest desert we’ve ever seen

Zach planned this diversion not knowing a lot about the area but curious enough to make the special trip since it’s not on the way to or close to any town or other landmark. We are so glad we made the journey! We learned even more about the vast Sonoran desert, and now we’re all confidently walking around subsequent trails correctly identifying different desert foliage. We went on a scavenger hunt drive where we stopped at specific mile markers to find the cristate cactus, these are cactus that where they grew abnormally and created these beautiful fins or crowns. The kids have been gobbling up ranger badges and this park was no different, but they had a desert ranger badge that Natalie could work for (which was a little more reading and a higher level than some of the Jr. Ranger books), and in addition to their wooden badges this park went all out with patches and pins.

A close up of a cristate growth on an organ pipe cactus
Natalie’s patch on her pack

The most thought provoking part of this visit to us was the very visible border wall between the US and Mexico. I’ll be frank. It’s a crock of BS. There were signs all over the park asking to report “suspicious” activity while at the same time trying to assure the public that someone crossing illegally would likely not try through such a public thoroughfare. The only real suspicious activity we noted at all was the myriad of Border Patrol trucks zooming to and fro all over the otherwise completely quite landscape. It’s almost as if this government agency was given free reign to do as they please terrorizing people with brown skin and trying to make their job look important and necessary to the rest of us. This is where on one hike basically the only thing I could think about was I get to willingly trek through this desert with a destination and end in mind and it’s still hard and it’s hot and water is scarce, but what about the person who is doing it out of desperation for hundreds of more miles, far less resources, scarce water and food, and so much fear. I’ve always held a tender spot in my heart for anyone making such a perilous journey. I tear up anytime I hear a story about someone fleeing terrible circumstances from their home country. I understand it because I’ve spent a lot of time witnessing the poverty and hopelessness present in some of the places they are fleeing from. But having my feet on the ground where perhaps someone has crossed and maybe dropped a glove or left a broken piece of something really deepened my compassion and empathy for their struggle and courage to go anyway because they see it as maybe the only ounce of hope left for them or their family. So, getting back to the issue of my infuriation with that wall. It’s just a blatant power statement that we as a country would rather waste our money and resources on building such an ugly monstrosity, then pour billions of dollars into patrolling and capturing people seeking asylum. Wouldn’t we do better by using those billions of dollars for humanitarian help, or how about supporting the countries that we corrupted in the first place so people don’t have to make the difficult decision to leave? Or, how about we allow people of all skin colors and education levels to come here legally with a path to citizenship? I hope that in my lifetime we can really reform what immigration looks like. People have been migrating since the beginning of human time, people will continue migrating especially as the effects of climate change touches more and more areas. Seeking asylum, immigration of any form should not be criminalized or weaponized. We are a country, built by immigrants, with more than enough abundance to share our wealth and resources with those seeking the opportunity to participate in our society. I hope we tear down that wall in my lifetime and we stop wasting resources in such a cruel and needless manner. This is why we travel, so that we can learn firsthand and with our bodies about the deeper things that are affecting us as a global population. Yes, the sights are fun and we’re also getting plenty of rest, but overall I want to teach by showing my family a different point of view. To consider somebody else’s story.

My thoughts are the same as the person who graffiti’ed this sign. Stop treating people like they are anything less than the beautiful humans they are. Everyone deserves dignity.
Could you imagine trying to cross this desert for days on end? It’s all I could think about.
Remnants from an old mining site within the park
The saguaros here were ginormous too

A Month in Arizona. Beginning

The US Army gave camels a try in the desert around here a couple of years before the Civil War, the experiment failed but the camels remained in this area for awhile, hence the homage to them in the town sign.

Quartzsite, Arizona

After reaching another phase of decision fatigue and consulting friends familiar with the area we decided to try out the LTVA BLM. It’s where all the snowbirds flock for the winter with every type of camper ranging from million dollar second home on wheels to homeless encampment. The long term BLM option was to pay $40 for two weeks or $180 for the season which runs from September to April. We chose the two weeks obviously, but the low price for the really long term made it clear why there was such a diverse and interesting population all around us.

Q is a geologically interesting place too, we gathered a couple of bags of quartz and other pretty rocks to start a new collection wherever we may end up. Even if there was less variety of things to do here the rocks and things people did with them (like making driveways and delineated lines around their own little carved out spot) kept us interested and entertained.

Sunsets here were showstoppers almost nightly

A few days into our stay here we were sitting outside watching the goings on when some friends we made in Nevada rolled up to the nearby dump station. Their big gray and green skoolie was pretty easy and unique enough to spot from a hundred yards away. Camden ran over and flagged them down and a day after that they returned to camp near us! Having two other kids to hang out with has been a heaven send foe both of our families. It was really fun to hang out with the Jolley family a second time, sharing stories around the campfire and comparing travel notes. They also enlightened us on a few more things to check out in Q from hikes to the best big outdoor flea market.

Hiking up to the top of Dome Rock in BLM Area
View from the top. And adding to the tall cairns.
Everything was $1 here and we sure stocked up on all the dry goods. Very reminiscent of a Guatemalan market but with elderly people instead.
A drive and hike to Dripping Springs where we saw a lot of petroglyphs
Rugged
Someone had some alternate fun on this 4WD road
Another camel homage, outside of Gemworld, a rock store in Quartzsite

Salton Sea and Outdoor Art

“The only other thing is nothing.”

In-between our hiking days we spent one full day exploring around the Salton Sea. My artsy Denver friend Emily also cued me in that Salvation Mountain and East Jesus were in the area and a definite must see. This was Natalie’s favorite day, maybe of the whole trip so far!

Salton Sea derives its fame as the biggest environmental disaster in California history, its remnants have been transformed into an artist’s community – we stopped at Bombay Beach and walked around taking it all in. There is nothing to do on or in the water, it’s too salty for life to thrive there. Yet some super creative folks are transforming areas around here into giant art installations. We’ll let the photos do the talking here:

That’s right, I’m fancy
Loved that we could interact with the pieces
In a backyard, as you do…
Definitely a vibe
Found his seat at the drive-in!

Just a 20 minute drive from Bombay Beach was Salvation Mountain. Leonard Knight really loved God and spent the last 30 years of his life living on the margins in the desert and painting his monument for all to see.

To read more go here: http://www.salvationmountain.us

So colorful and loving
An interior grotto. Made with straw, Adobe, and paint

Then another 10 minute drive and we arrived at East Jesus. An ongoing experimental art installation made from repurposed garbage.

To read more: http://eastjesus.org

Entry to East Jesus

All of it was very imaginative and interesting. We all wandered off in our own directions letting the art lead the way. I was particularly moved by the Black Lives Matter display and the TV installation. Such a strong visual reaction to such powerful current events. Slab City (what this area is known as), left a deep impression on us. And speaks to the boundless imaginations of people society has deemed as broken and rubbish, they are far from that and we could all learn something from allowing ourselves to step into their world once in awhile.

Joshua Tree National Park

There’s always been an intriguing draw for me to get to Joshua Tree NP. From pictures and descriptions, I just knew it’d be an interesting place unlike anything we’d ever seen before. We chose to camp on the southern boundary of the park since they are at peak season and getting a spot in the park was not going to happen.

Chiriaco Summit is a small family-run oasis community. Even though there is only a gas station and small cafe at this exit, you could sense the hospitality exuding from the people working there. We set up at the free Dry Camp right behind the General Patton Memorial Museum, the full timer there welcomed us and got us “registered” since we were planning on staying more than one night. (This was more of a place for people passing through but welcomed weary travelers for up to seven days as well.)

Dry Camp entry, a great spot for the week

Our first foray into Joshua Tree was a stop at the Cholla Cactus Garden right about sunset on the Sunday after the Thanksgiving holiday week (it was quite busy). There were a lot of “influencer” type photo shoots happening and it felt as though we had truly arrived in California 🤣🌵💃🏽

The garden itself was fascinating. Just miles upon miles of this one species of cactus. It whet our appetite for what was to come with the other desert foliage.

Cholla (pronounced choya) cactus
Cholla garden at sunset

The next venture in, we planned on a whole day. From our southern location you had to cross the Colorado desert into the Mojave and drive about 40miles into the park to start to see the Joshua Trees. That’s been an interesting take out here in the dirt, I thought a desert was a desert, but you could actually see the terrain transform crossing these two distinct planes.

The most popular and highest elevation hike, Ryan Mountain, was suggested to us by a ranger so we started our adventuring there. It was a steep climb up, about a 1000ft elevation gain in 1 1/2 miles. We are out of condition for high elevation hikes like this! But we persisted and made it to the top for the 360° views. After that we made our way to a picnic area and a lot of roadside pullouts featuring rock formations and Joshua trees. We didn’t make it to the northern most part of the park because we thought we’d approach it from another entry point later in the week but that plan fell through. We still saw a lot though and were super happy to check it off our must see parks list.

The summit of Ryan Mountain
Picnic with the big rock formations

The third full day spent in the park was on the southern end and a longer hike called Lost Palms Oasis. We hiked to just what the trail was called, some lost palms settled into a wash that someone must have planted for relief from the desert heat who knows how long ago. Camden was in high gear on this hike, a surprising development for the day, he had been expecting some scrambling and rock climbing the whole time so he was in a hurry on this hike. It was the fastest pace we’d ever done 7 miles in, just under 3 hours! From the end of this trail, the boys decided to bushwhack down an old canyon and waterfall that fed basically right back to our camp, that satisfied his want for an challenge. Us girls went from where we came to retrieve the car. We got home early and rested for the remainder of the day, after ice cream of course.

Palm trees hanging out with Cottonwoods in their fall glory
The grove of palm trees at the end of our long hike
Ocotillo blooms, my favorite desert plant so far